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> Food and wine trips (14)
> Food and wine trips (14)
Kaffeehaus Demel Wien. Vienna, Demel coffee shop and the disputation about Sacher torte
Vienna, break time
by Marina Alaimo
Recently I visited Vienna, a city which is the symbol of harmony between past and present, where the inhabitants define themselves realistic and dreamers. I visited many museums, churches and imperial palaces, I enjoyed moments strictly connected to my passion for music and stopped at coffee shop in the historical centre (Innere Stadt).
I walked a lot and I got very hungry. I didn’t go into raptures for Viennese cuisine, above all for the fact that it’s heavy in summer: sausage, boiled meat, cutlets, goulash and soups. But I needed to eat something to keep visiting the city.
Hofburg, the view of the imperial palace from Demel coffee house open-air terrace
In coffee shops elegant waitresses with traditional black dresses of the beginning of the twentieth century, serve coffee with delicious slices of cake, almost always the Sacher. Viennese love patronizing coffee shops and places where they can chat and eat. Here you can breathe the typical sweet peace which is called “gemutlichkeit”. Also I love bars and coffee shops, I think that they represent the soul of the inhabitants of a city or a country.
Chocolates and sweets on sale in Demel coffee shop
I am a Neapolitan and in Naples there is a great cult of coffee but this is different from the Viennese one: the Neapolitans drink coffee quickly while chatting.
Demel coffee house, in via Kohlmar 14, was my oasis of taste. I went there almost every day at breakfast time and enjoyed very good pastries and a good coffee. This dark and old drink is very appreciated by the Austrians. This tradition started in 1683 when the Turkish were thrown out of the city and left about 500 sacks containing dark beans which the Viennese thought to be food for camels. The Polish Kolshitki, who knew the Turkish culture very well, explained that these beans were toasted to obtain a very pleasant drink.
Demel, the desserts shown in the window
The Viennese enjoyed this drink very much and gave Kolshitki a shop as a gift. It was located behind Santo Stefano cathedral and became the first coffee shop in Vienna. Here people gathered to chat, think and read in a peaceful atmosphere.
The macharons of the Demel coffee shop
They propose many traditional coffees like Melange (with milk froth); Franziskaner (with whipped cream), Kleiner Brauner (a small cup of coffee with whipped cream served aside); GroBer Brauner (double black coffee with whipped cream served aside); Verlangerter an Brauner (black coffee served with milk); Kleiner Shwarzer (Italian dark coffee without sugar); GroBer Shwarzer (a double Kleiner Schwarzer; Kaisermelange (a big cup of coffee with egg white, honey and cognac); Einspanner (double Italian coffee with whipped cream); Fiaker (coffee laced with rum).
I enjoyed the Sacher torte very much, it is a soft chocolate cake filled with a thin layer of apricot jam and covered with chocolate icing and an apple strudel with a perfect balance of apples, sugar and butter. This place is very elegant and the furnishings and the cared for service are the ones of the past. The windows, decorated with traditional puppets or sugar toys, are lovely.
Imperial dessert-service for custard
This shop was opened in 1888. The owner of this shop and the owner of the Hotel Sacher fought the famous “seven sweet years” war to compete for the paternity of the famous chocolate cake. This long quarrel finished in 1962 with a decree of the Austrian Supreme Court which attributed the appellation controlee to the Hotel Sacher.
The ice basket used by the Hapsburg
For this reason only the Hotel Sacher can use the Sacher Torte brand. The Demel calls it Ur Sacher Torte. From the Demel open-air terrace you can enjoy a wonderful view over the Ofburg, the Hapsburg residence from 1283 to 1918. Many tourists visit the historical centre on old horse-drawn coaches.Traduzione in italiano su http://www.lucianopignataro.it/a/kaffeehaus-demel-wien-vienna-il-caffe-demel-e-la-disputa-della-sacher-torte/14223/