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> Food and wine trips (14)
> Food and wine trips (14)
The authentic tastes of Sorrento in a one-day trip
by Marina Alaimo
The SorrentoPeninsula is located along the coast between the Lattari Mountains and the sea and includes inlets and villages which are like precious gems. It is a beautiful place and for this reason many tourists come here. The main town is Sorrento where people are very friendly with tourists and foreigners. Beauties and welcome make this place unique. In the last few years many foreign people get married in Sorrento and this has become a business.
You can have a coffee or a breakfast at the Foreigners’Club, in via Luigi De Maio 45, a bar and a restaurant proposing a few dishes. From the terrace you will enjoy a breathtaking view over the coast and the gulf of Naples. This enchanted place was born in the Sixties as a night club where foreigners enjoyed show dinners and danced.
You can take a walk in the old S. Cesareo street characterized by many colours and workshops and stop at Ciro D’Esposito’s Limonoro (Via S. Cesareo 49, phone +39 081 8785348), a shop specialized in producing and selling liqueurs and desserts prepared with the typical lemons from Sorrento like the famous “limoncello”, chocolate with lemon, “capresini” pastries made with almonds and lemons, lemon and orange rinds covered with chocolate, the “nocciolato” (a typical pastry made with the hazelnuts from Sorrento and flavoured with lemon), the baba with limoncello and many other delicacies.
It is very pleasant going round the greengrocers and the fishmongers. You will find fruit, imported seafood and high quality local products.
For the lunch I chose the restaurants which mix tradition, local products, innovation and beauty. Refoods is a new restaurant and lounge bar which includes a cheese counter (you can eat cheese there or buy it). You will find cheese from Calitri, “podolico” from Potenza, “caciocavallo” from Irpinia, “canestrato” from Moliterno and above all the buffalo mozzarella from Campania, ricotta and buffalo “provola”. The dishes are based on seafood and the pasta is handmade by the chef Vincenzo Piacente.
Antica Trattoria, in via Padre Rinaldo Giuliani 33(phone +39 081 8071082) is a restaurant which springs in refined and cosy rooms even it is of humble origin. It was opened in 1930 as a salted cod and stockfish shop. Then the owner Carmela Ioviero started to propose dishes prepared with these products and opened a small trattoria which became a restaurant with typical cuisine between 1975-1980. Today the owner is Aldo Doria who has revolutionized this restaurant in the last ten years. The chef Tonino Maresca is able to mix tradition and innovation. Don’t miss the homemade ravioli stuffed with ricotta and citrus fruit from Sorrento on stewed seafood, roasted lamb with a “provolone del monaco” cheese sauce, “pezzogna” fish with salt, seafood soup with slices of stargazer, “tracina”, “coccio”, Scorpion fish, “marvizzo” and prawns. Visit the well-stocked cellar.
Another restaurant which has not to be missed is the Buco at the II Rampa Marina Piccola 5 (near the Tasso Theatre in S. Antonino square, phone +39 081 8782354). The ambiance is very nice, there is a wide choice of dishes based above all on seafood. The wine-list is well-stocked.
Da Filippo restaurant in Via Cesarano 5 (phone +39 081 877 2448) has proposed a traditional cuisine for twenty-five years. It is out of the centre of Sorrento. It is renowned above all for the homemade desserts like the tart with figs and hazelnuts from Sorrento, lemon tart, “pastiera”, sorbets and ice-creams.
If you want a pizza go to L’Antico Forno a legna Da Franco, a place in a simple and traditional style where you can enjoy a very good pizza and the typical “saltimbocca”, a kind of sandwich made with pizza dough and stuffed with the “fiordilatte” cheese from Agerola and raw ham.
Visit the Fondo L’Agrumaio, a 200 year old citrus fruit garden opposite the pizzeria. It includes orange, lemon and mandarin trees. I suggest to buy a good saltimbocca at Franco’s and then enjoy it under the citrus grove equipped with wooden benches and tables. The fruit scents are intense and very pleasant.
You can spend the afternoon visiting antique shops and workshops. Don’t miss a unique art workshop, Marcello Aversa’s Bottega where the master realizes miniatures in raw terracotta, above all cribs but also typical scenes which synthesize some cultural features of this land. This workshop is in Via Sersale 3 in Sorrento, phone +39 081 8771535.
You can enjoy an aperitif at the famous Fauno bar in Torquato Tasso square, with very good desserts. Its origins trace back to the Fifties. Regarding desserts and ice-creams stop at the Primavera bar whose owner is Antonio Cafiero. In the small tasting room you can enjoy the traditional tastes on typical inlaid tables. Here you can eat the lemon “delizia”, a delicious dessert made with sponge cake and filled with lemon chantilly cream, it is irresistible. You can also eat many other desserts and ice-creams.
And what about the dinner? I suggest two places just out of Sorrento: le Tre Arcate Restaurant, in Piano di Sorrento, whose owner is Alessandro Russo. Here there is a local cuisine. The chef Salvatore Accietto prepares dishes with seafood and vegetables. The menu varies every month. Regarding the starters there is octopus salad with dried tomatoes and fennel, squid salad with celery and hazelnuts from Sorrento, local “capocollo” salami with figs and “provolone delmonaco” cheese. Regarding the first courses there is spaghetti with “piennolo” tomatoes, “paccheri” pasta with genuine clams and zucchini flowers, linguini with seafood and green peppers, pasta with flying squids from Punta Campanella and pasta with Menaica anchovies, cabbage and chilli pepper. As far as the main dishes go you can have the traditional fried “paranza” fish, “pezzogna” fish with salt or in the “acqua pazza” style, gilthead roll stuffed with olives from Gaeta and capers from Sorrento, flying squids and potatoes or fillet of meat obtained from the Caserta black pig with bread and sautéed broccoli. You can finish your meal with the “isolotto”, a dessert invented here which is similar to the Caprese cake served hot with a heart of fondant chocolate. Le Tre Arcate restaurant has two floors, on the ground floor in the morning there is the restaurant and the pizzeria with a wide choice of dishes, in the evening it is a pizzeria and a rotisserie, also taking-away.
Another restaurant out of Sorrento which can’t be missed is Lo Stuzzichino, in Via Deserto 1 in Sant’Agata sui due Golfi di Massa Lubrense (phone +39 081 5330308). It was opened in 1989 by Paolo De Gregorio now helped by his children Domenico, a sommelier, and Giuseppe, a pastry chef. This is a real icon of the traditional tastes from the SorrentoPeninsula. The menu is wide and the wine-list includes the best Italian wines. Regarding the typical dishes there are the shrimps from Crapolla and the pasta and potatoes with “provolone delmonaco” DOP cheese.